Porn, Punk, and Plagiarism

Hello all!

Pechuga reporting here from sunny Los Angeles. 

In an effort to share with you the history of some of the items that I stumble upon (and in an effort to go back to writing, because I love it!) I've decided to periodically write blog posts pertaining to the vintage (and contemporary treasures) that Pechuga currently has up for sale. I hope you all enjoy! 

I decided to highlight this specific shirt from Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood for 2 main reasons: the significance of this piece for the Westwood label; the controversy it caused. 

Andreas Kronthaler is Westwood's design partner, spouse, and was once her student at the  University of Applied Arts Vienna, as a duo they've been co-designing for more than 25 years.         

                                Andreas Kronthaler by Lukas Gansterer

Those who follow Westwood and her business know of Kronthaler's involvement with the label (in fact one of the first pieces that he made for Vivienne, the Sun Dress, was included in her 1989 collection) but it wasn't until the Autumn / Winter 2016/17 season that the company did a radical change in Kronthaler's favor. 

AK for VW

For the first time Kronthaler would show solo in Paris, the Gold Label division (the high-priced demi-couture line of the Westwood label) would now be renamed Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. The title of this first collection: Sexercise. 

Several of the pieces caught my attention. The burnt sienna toga dresses, the knits, the prints (I have a soft spot for ladybugs). I was hooked. 

Cartie Dress from AK for VW AW16/17 sold earlier this year

If I remember correctly I should have around 5-6 pieces from this collection. As a collector I thought it was a palpable turning moment for Vivienne Westwood (as a label). The agenda of the company was clear : to showcase Konthaler's influence on Westwood over the years and to give him more creative control. And what a way to do it! Even Vogue's Amy Verner noted Westwood's apparent reverence to her better half in the show's review.

Look 28

 Look 28; AK for VW2016/17

Ok but first: THIS look. The shearling boots, the cape, the luxe papal-esque hat, and the peaking lady bugs. I settled for the lady bugs on the "Diablo Shirt" and the blue eyed hunk in the middle. 

Scandale!

David White by Norbert Jobst for Playgirl, 1976

And this is where things got uncomfortable for Kronthaler and Westwood. As it turns out the collage, titled The Man You Love Number 4, featured in the middle of the shirt was made by Spanish artist Roberta Marrero  in 2015. David White (a prominent male model & porn star in the 70's) is seen with doodles and superimposed El diablo images from the popular Mexican game Lotería. 

This explicit example of plagiarism went under the radar of Diet Prada, instead becoming fodder for other social media crusaders who put enough pressure on the English label to come forward, apologize, and "settle things out" (see: money). Interestingly enough (or maybe only interesting to me, ha!) I got this shirt for my own collection. Never wore it. The mutton sleeves really didn't do anything for my 5'8" frame. It is now for sale, sized S/M and in excellent condition. Click  here to purchase. 

Now, a gratuitous photo of David White, because I mean come on. 

Thanks for reading! Until next time. 

Johnny Valencia 

Owner